They break at the 90 degree point, with the flat trigger straight up and down. There's less take-up on the grayguns trigger until meeting resistance, and because it has overtravel adjustment, less overtravel, and thus less reset distance, too. I believe the distance is the same, in that if you can reach the flat trigger comfortably on the Sig trigger, you'll reach it the same on the Grayguns. What I carry, and what I shoot in competitions, however, are Grayguns parts, for what it's worth. I don't have a bad history with Sig parts: I keep a stock of them as spares, and I've put Sig triggers in some of my kids guns. I'll say this: if Grayguns says a part is ready to go, my faith in their backing their part is without hesitation. A lot of the Grayguns parts are inocculously well designed they look about the same, feel similiar, but there is a difference. Were it me, I'd opt for the Grayguns, which I have. The subtle difference with the Grayguns is a little less take up, certainly less overtravel, and there's a slight difference in the material that provides a cover for the hole where the trigger extends through the frame (Sig covers it on both sides, Grayguns doesn't. You'll get exactly what it looks like you'll get. There's nothing wrong with the Sig trigger.
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